2013年7月23日星期二
A Short History of Fashion Chanel Price
FIRST DECADE OF Chanel Price
20CENTURY. 1900-1910Beginning of Edwardian epoch.STYLE : Continuation of
aesthetics of Art Nouveau style and development of “Arts and crafts“ movement .
Art Nouveau incarnated in in Vienna Austria as the Secession and in Germany as
Jugendstil.FASHION DESIGNERS: Paul Poiret, Jean Paquin, Mariano FortunyDANCE :
Tango, Waltz.POPULAR MUSIC: Ragtime.ART: Fauvism , Analytical Cubism,
ExpressionismSECOND DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1910-1920.Development of Edwardian
epoch.STYLE :Art Nouveau style evolved in Art Deco .First World War. Development
of more practical women’s fashion.FASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Chanel ( as an
emerging designer she open her first shop in 1913), Paquin, Lanvin, Leon
Bakst(mostly costume designer for Ballets Russes), Jackues DoucetInspiration :
Chanel
Price Ballets RussesFASHION ILLUSTRATORS: George Barbier, George LepapeDANCE
: Tango, Waltz BostonPOPULAR MUSIC: Ragtime, beginning of Jazz.ART: Fauvism ,
Analytical Cubism, Dadaism( after 1914 ), FuturismTHIRD DECADE OF 20CENTURY.
1920-1930.Roaring TwentiesSTYLE : formation of Art Deco style.INFLUENCES AND
INSPIRATION: cinematograph, social revolution, new technology, sport , Russian
constructivists: Varvara Stepanova, Lubov PopovaFASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Channel
, Madeleine Vionnet; Erte , Sonia Delauney, Lanvin, Jean Patau, Edward
MolynexDANCE : Charleston, Foxtrot, Tango , ShimmyPOPULAR MUSIC: JazzART: Non
Figurative abstraction , Cubism, Futurism, Bauhaus, ConstructivismFORTH DECADE
OF 20CENTURY Chanel Price
. 1930-1940.Style : development of Art Decobeginning of “ready to wear”
fashionFASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Channel, Elsa Schiaparelli .FASHION ILLUSTRATOR:
DrianPOPULAR MUSIC: Jazz , Big BandDANCE : Foxtrot, Tango, Valse , Boogie
WoogieART: Surrealism, ConstructivismFIFTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1940-1950.Style
: decline of Art DecoSecond World War. Transition from masculine women’s fashion
of the beginning of the decade to extremely feminine ( New Look by Dior) by the
end of the decadeFASHION DESIGNERS: Lucien Lelong, Christian Dior ,Christobal
Balensiaga, Jacques Fath, Pierre Balman .Development of “ready to wear” fashion
in the USAPOPULAR MUSIC : Bop , Big BandDANCE : Jive, Swing , FoxtrotArt:
deepening of Chanel Price non
representational abstraction in the USA with input of Hans Hoffman, cut outs of
Matisse, individual style of Arshile Gorky. Fernan LegerSIXTH DECADE OF
20CENTURY. 1950-1960.Style : Influences and inspiration: Neo Realism
CinemaFASHION DESIGNERS: Christian Dior ; Christobal Balensiaga Channel (came
back at 1954), Jack Patu, Pierre Balman, Emilio PucciSpreading of “ready to
wear” concept ( prêt o porter in French interpretation) to Europe (Marx &
Spenser )Origination of alternative style. Beat generation . emerging of Teenage
styles and fashionFASHION ILLUSTRATOR: Rene GruauPOPULAR MUSIC: Cool jazz (Miles
Davis, Gerry Mulligan, Stan Getz,)DANCE : Rockabilly , Rock n’roll, TwistART:
Abstract expressionismSEVENTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1960-1970.INFLUENCES AND
INSPIRATIONS: street styles, youth culture, rock music, space exploration, new
technologiesFASHION DESIGNERS: Chanel Price
Yves Saint Laurent, Paco Rabanne, Ted Lapidus, Mary Quant, André Courrèges ,
Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro (from late 60s)Ready to were lines in haute
couture Rive Goche by Yves Saint LaurentReady to were Brands emerged : Gap
(1969), Benetton (1965)Generation of “ready to wear” stylists (evolved from late
sixties) Sonia Rykiel, Emanuel Khan, Gerard Pipard, Christian BaillyStreet
styles and alternative fashion : Hippy, Modes, RockersRise of Fashion
photography. Decline of fashion illustration.DANCE : Rochk’n rollPOPULAR MUSIC:
Rock ‘n' Roll, RockART: Abstract expressionism , Op Art, Pop Art Stylistic
diversity , end of monolith stylistic trend.EIGHT DECADE OF 20CENTURY.
1970-1980.Fashion photography replaces fashion illustration. Richard Avedon and
Helmut NewtonFASHION DESIGNERS:France :Yves Saint Laurent, Kenzo ( moved from
Japan in Paris in 1964)UK: Vivienne WestwoodUSA : Calvin Klein (launched his own
Chanel Price
clothing company in 1968, jeans brand in 70s)Italian High fashion : Valentino,
Armani (established his own men's wear label in 1974), Versace (1978)Ready to
were Brands expanded: Gap : Sales reach $2 million. Gap's second store opens in
San Jose, Calif., Benetton (1965)DANCE : Disco, Glam, PopART: Conceptualism,
emerging of Body Art and Performance Art, Arte Povera , Emergence of
Installation ArtPOPULAR MUSIC: Punk RockNINTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY.
1980-1990.Stylistic diversity expanded Influences and inspiration: pop
MusicSTYLE : personal expression dominates the stylistic modeINFLUENCES AND
INSPIRATION: end of cold war and collapse of USSR , internet, new era of
electronic communication, PCFASHION DESIGNERS: Galliano ( rediscovery of Dior) ,
Tom Ford ( revival of Gucci) Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, Martin
MARGIELA and Ann Demeulemeester expanded into the fashion industry. Marc Ecko
represents new trend in the 90s fashion.Dance : Music: Grunge , Hip Hop, RapArt:
Conceptual Art , Digital Art, Media Art , Installation ArtFASHION DESIGNERS:Karl
Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana , Alaia, Christian LacroixJapanese
expansion : Ray Kawakoobo, Issey Miyake , Yohji YamamotoUK: Vivienne Westwood
established her priority in development of new inspired by alternative fashion
style Chanel
Price . .Emerging Belgian designers : “The Six of Antwerp” – Ann
Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk
Bikkembergs en Marina YeeSport brands evolved as fashion brands Nike, Adidas and
Reebok fashion phenomenaUSA: triumph of Donna Karan ( started 1985) and
expansion of Calvin Klein into the underwear market.Ready to were Brands go
global and became a global fashion phenomena :Benetton is known all over the
world. 1987 The first Gap store outside the United States opens in London,
England, on George Street.POPULAR MUSIC: Pop ( Michel Jackson, Madonna, Boy
George) Reggie (Bob Marley).DANCE : Break dance. Disco, Pop, Techno , House,
Euro-DanceART: Conceptualism, Photorealism, Trance Avant-Garde, development of
Installation ArtTENTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1990-2000.STYLE : personal expression
dominates the stylistic modeINFLUENCES AND INSPIRATION: end of cold war and
collapse of USSR , internet, new era of electronic communication, PCFASHION
DESIGNERS: Galliano ( rediscovery of Dior) , Tom Ford ( revival of Gucci)
Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, Martin MARGIELA and Ann Demeulemeester
expanded into the fashion industry. Marc Ecko represents new trend in the 90s
fashion.Dance : Music: Grunge , Hip Hop, RapArt: Conceptual Art , Digital Art,
Media Art , Installation Art
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