2013年7月23日星期二

A Short History of Fashion Chanel Price

FIRST DECADE OF Chanel Price 20CENTURY. 1900-1910Beginning of Edwardian epoch.STYLE : Continuation of aesthetics of Art Nouveau style and development of “Arts and crafts“ movement . Art Nouveau incarnated in in Vienna Austria as the Secession and in Germany as Jugendstil.FASHION DESIGNERS: Paul Poiret, Jean Paquin, Mariano FortunyDANCE : Tango, Waltz.POPULAR MUSIC: Ragtime.ART: Fauvism , Analytical Cubism, ExpressionismSECOND DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1910-1920.Development of Edwardian epoch.STYLE :Art Nouveau style evolved in Art Deco .First World War. Development of more practical women’s fashion.FASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Chanel ( as an emerging designer she open her first shop in 1913), Paquin, Lanvin, Leon Bakst(mostly costume designer for Ballets Russes), Jackues DoucetInspiration : Chanel Price Ballets RussesFASHION ILLUSTRATORS: George Barbier, George LepapeDANCE : Tango, Waltz BostonPOPULAR MUSIC: Ragtime, beginning of Jazz.ART: Fauvism , Analytical Cubism, Dadaism( after 1914 ), FuturismTHIRD DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1920-1930.Roaring TwentiesSTYLE : formation of Art Deco style.INFLUENCES AND INSPIRATION: cinematograph, social revolution, new technology, sport , Russian constructivists: Varvara Stepanova, Lubov PopovaFASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Channel , Madeleine Vionnet; Erte , Sonia Delauney, Lanvin, Jean Patau, Edward MolynexDANCE : Charleston, Foxtrot, Tango , ShimmyPOPULAR MUSIC: JazzART: Non Figurative abstraction , Cubism, Futurism, Bauhaus, ConstructivismFORTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY Chanel Price . 1930-1940.Style : development of Art Decobeginning of “ready to wear” fashionFASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Channel, Elsa Schiaparelli .FASHION ILLUSTRATOR: DrianPOPULAR MUSIC: Jazz , Big BandDANCE : Foxtrot, Tango, Valse , Boogie WoogieART: Surrealism, ConstructivismFIFTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1940-1950.Style : decline of Art DecoSecond World War. Transition from masculine women’s fashion of the beginning of the decade to extremely feminine ( New Look by Dior) by the end of the decadeFASHION DESIGNERS: Lucien Lelong, Christian Dior ,Christobal Balensiaga, Jacques Fath, Pierre Balman .Development of “ready to wear” fashion in the USAPOPULAR MUSIC : Bop , Big BandDANCE : Jive, Swing , FoxtrotArt: deepening of Chanel Price non representational abstraction in the USA with input of Hans Hoffman, cut outs of Matisse, individual style of Arshile Gorky. Fernan LegerSIXTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1950-1960.Style : Influences and inspiration: Neo Realism CinemaFASHION DESIGNERS: Christian Dior ; Christobal Balensiaga Channel (came back at 1954), Jack Patu, Pierre Balman, Emilio PucciSpreading of “ready to wear” concept ( prêt o porter in French interpretation) to Europe (Marx & Spenser )Origination of alternative style. Beat generation . emerging of Teenage styles and fashionFASHION ILLUSTRATOR: Rene GruauPOPULAR MUSIC: Cool jazz (Miles Davis, Gerry Mulligan, Stan Getz,)DANCE : Rockabilly , Rock n’roll, TwistART: Abstract expressionismSEVENTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1960-1970.INFLUENCES AND INSPIRATIONS: street styles, youth culture, rock music, space exploration, new technologiesFASHION DESIGNERS: Chanel Price Yves Saint Laurent, Paco Rabanne, Ted Lapidus, Mary Quant, André Courrèges , Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro (from late 60s)Ready to were lines in haute couture Rive Goche by Yves Saint LaurentReady to were Brands emerged : Gap (1969), Benetton (1965)Generation of “ready to wear” stylists (evolved from late sixties) Sonia Rykiel, Emanuel Khan, Gerard Pipard, Christian BaillyStreet styles and alternative fashion : Hippy, Modes, RockersRise of Fashion photography. Decline of fashion illustration.DANCE : Rochk’n rollPOPULAR MUSIC: Rock ‘n' Roll, RockART: Abstract expressionism , Op Art, Pop Art Stylistic diversity , end of monolith stylistic trend.EIGHT DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1970-1980.Fashion photography replaces fashion illustration. Richard Avedon and Helmut NewtonFASHION DESIGNERS:France :Yves Saint Laurent, Kenzo ( moved from Japan in Paris in 1964)UK: Vivienne WestwoodUSA : Calvin Klein (launched his own Chanel Price clothing company in 1968, jeans brand in 70s)Italian High fashion : Valentino, Armani (established his own men's wear label in 1974), Versace (1978)Ready to were Brands expanded: Gap : Sales reach $2 million. Gap's second store opens in San Jose, Calif., Benetton (1965)DANCE : Disco, Glam, PopART: Conceptualism, emerging of Body Art and Performance Art, Arte Povera , Emergence of Installation ArtPOPULAR MUSIC: Punk RockNINTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1980-1990.Stylistic diversity expanded Influences and inspiration: pop MusicSTYLE : personal expression dominates the stylistic modeINFLUENCES AND INSPIRATION: end of cold war and collapse of USSR , internet, new era of electronic communication, PCFASHION DESIGNERS: Galliano ( rediscovery of Dior) , Tom Ford ( revival of Gucci) Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, Martin MARGIELA and Ann Demeulemeester expanded into the fashion industry. Marc Ecko represents new trend in the 90s fashion.Dance : Music: Grunge , Hip Hop, RapArt: Conceptual Art , Digital Art, Media Art , Installation ArtFASHION DESIGNERS:Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana , Alaia, Christian LacroixJapanese expansion : Ray Kawakoobo, Issey Miyake , Yohji YamamotoUK: Vivienne Westwood established her priority in development of new inspired by alternative fashion style Chanel Price . .Emerging Belgian designers : “The Six of Antwerp” – Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs en Marina YeeSport brands evolved as fashion brands Nike, Adidas and Reebok fashion phenomenaUSA: triumph of Donna Karan ( started 1985) and expansion of Calvin Klein into the underwear market.Ready to were Brands go global and became a global fashion phenomena :Benetton is known all over the world. 1987 The first Gap store outside the United States opens in London, England, on George Street.POPULAR MUSIC: Pop ( Michel Jackson, Madonna, Boy George) Reggie (Bob Marley).DANCE : Break dance. Disco, Pop, Techno , House, Euro-DanceART: Conceptualism, Photorealism, Trance Avant-Garde, development of Installation ArtTENTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1990-2000.STYLE : personal expression dominates the stylistic modeINFLUENCES AND INSPIRATION: end of cold war and collapse of USSR , internet, new era of electronic communication, PCFASHION DESIGNERS: Galliano ( rediscovery of Dior) , Tom Ford ( revival of Gucci) Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, Martin MARGIELA and Ann Demeulemeester expanded into the fashion industry. Marc Ecko represents new trend in the 90s fashion.Dance : Music: Grunge , Hip Hop, RapArt: Conceptual Art , Digital Art, Media Art , Installation Art

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